EXPERT’S NOTEBOOK

Oily, blemish-prone and acne-prone skin

Spotlight on oily, acne-prone skin

Oily, shiny skin, a few little spots, a few blackheads on the cheeks or nose... The onset of oily, acne-prone skin that “ marks ” the start of puberty; excessive sensitivity of the sebaceous glands – which secrete too much sebum – to the sex hormones that flood the body at this important time in life. It’s a common concern as acne affects 83% of girls and 95% of boys. And, because its course is unpredictable, coming and going almost spontaneously, it should always be taken seriously and be treated properly.

 

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The low down

Learn all about oily and acne-prone skin

Medication: each type of oily, acne-prone skin has its own specific skin solution.

  • Mild oily, acne-prone skin: comedolytic treatments (promoting the removal of blackheads) or local antibiotics to fight inflammation.
  • Moderate oily, acne-prone skin: when local skin solutions are not enough, they should be paired with oral antibiotics. And pay attention to sun exposure (risk of sensitivity): you must always protect your skin from the sun . Ask your doctor for advice.
  • Severe oily, acne-prone skin: the use of isotretinoin is often required. This is prescribed by your doctor as it requires strict precautions, especially when it comes to contraception.

Your dermatologist or pharmacist will advise you on the products best suited to your skin and its condition.

In terms of skincare products, you should opt for:

  • gentle products which are kind to your skin,
  • hydrating or emollient products to compensate for the dryness caused by certain treatments,
  • non-comedogenic products to prevent any new blackheads from forming...

...and in general, products that are specifically designed for oily, acne-prone skin.

The different types of oily, acne-prone skin

Hyperseborrhea

Hyperseborrhea

This is the initial stage of any form of acne. Excess sebum: the skin is shiny and little spots appear.
Induced xerosis

Induced xerosis

Skin dehydrated by products containing overly aggressive surfactants (soaps). Similarly, irritating treatments (retinoid, fruit acids) dry out the skin.
Stubborn oily, acne-prone skin

Stubborn oily, acne-prone skin

Sebum accumulates in the sebaceous follicles and causes open comedones (blackheads) or closed comedones.
Inflammatory acne

Inflammatory acne

Proliferation of bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) and rupture of the follicle in the dermis; the appearance of inflammation and a red spot (papule) then infected (pustule).

Our expert answers your questions

Living better with oily, acne-prone skin

These marks, visible on the skin, are the after-effects of spots. As soon as your oily, acne-prone skin is better, contact your dermatologist who will advise you and suggest a suitable skin solution (peeling, laser, etc.) to get rid of the marks.

Don't be overzealous when washing... Don't try to " strip " your skin, you will only irritate it further. Take care of it gently. Cleansing gels " without soap " should be used and for makeup removal, use gentle daily care products.

Yes, but not just any old makeup... Choose non-comedogenic products. That is the least you can do.

Chocolate and processed meats pose no harm; the only thing to remember, of course, is to consume these in moderation... and to prioritise a healthy diet that will always be beneficial for your skin, as well as for your health in general.

When it comes to oily, acne-prone skin, the sun can be a hidden enemy that sometimes makes you think it is doing you good. In fact, when you expose yourself to the sun, spots dry out and any blackheads are masked by a tan. But microcysts form which come out when you return from your holidays. Recent marks from oily, acne-prone skin exposed to the sun can leave an unsightly and persistent brownish spot. To prevent this from happening, protect your skin with a high broad-specturn UVB-UVA sunscreen. If you are taking medication for oily, acne-prone skin, ask your dermatologist for advice before going on holiday as some skin solutions do not mix well with the sun.

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